I LAST visited Croatia as a reporter covering the aftermath of the break-up of the former Yugoslavia.
What a difference a decade makes. The people of Croatia have worked hard to move on from those dark days and the energy with which they embrace their new tourist industry is refreshing but not overwhelming. Even though I love travelling I hate to feel like a tourist.
Unlike some parts of the Med, where tourism seems to have destroyed any vestige of real local culture, Croatians have an air of “we’re doing very nicely without you, thank you” about them, so your holiday feels like a genuine dip into another way of life. What’s more, the waters are clear and the people (as my husband never stopped pointing out) are spectacularly gorgeous.
Dubrovnik is the jewel in the Croatian crown and we ended our holiday in the amazing walled city – but we began near Split, further north. It was here that the elite of the Roman empire would retire to enjoy their spoils. The emperor Diocletian built a huge villa here, parts of which are still standing. Over the centuries a cathedral, homes and even shops have been grafted on to the remnants. It may sound like a hotch-potch but somehow it all blends in seamlessly and turns the site beyond the mere historic and into a living ruin.
We were based at Le Meridien Lav, a 10-minute drive from Split, with its own beach and promenade. This gave us a chance to relax by the pool and enjoy their wonderful spa.
Because of the way much of the town is built on hills overlooking the harbour, you can eat out every night with the Adriatic glistening below you. Should you tire of the view, you can take an evening cruise and see the town and islands from the water while dining on delicious fresh fish.
Reluctant to leave, we chose to drive the four hours along the coast to Dubrovnik. We passed endless beaches with hotels and apartments lining the road. I’m sure we weren’t the only people fantasising about buying
a seafront house here.
No cars are permitted within Dubrovnik’s medieval walls, and its wide, café-lined main street is paved with marble that reflects the setting sun. It is like stepping into a golden streetscape and we couldn’t resist returning there every day.
Luckily our hotel, the luxurious Excelsior, was just a 10-minute walk away from the old town, so after sunset we could stroll back, put Darcey to bed, hand over to an excellent babysitter (the hotels are happy to organise them for you) and return to enjoy dinner.
We found the perfect spot – Nautika, a restaurant on a terrace overlooking the town walls and the sea. It was so good we went three nights in a row.
Those town walls have stood guard for centuries and you can imagine what it would have been like to be one of the sentries on duty, by walking all around them. The walls look on to apartments, gardens and houses – again, that strange mixture of the historic and the current that is Croatia’s hallmark.
It was Lord Byron who said Dubrovnik was the jewel in the crown of the Adriatic. He was right, but we found that Split sparkled too.
GETTING THERE: British Airways (0870 850 9850/ http://www.ba.com) offers return flights from Gatwick to Split and Dubrovnik from L110.
Holiday Options (0844 477 0451/ www.holidayoptions.co.uk) has seven nights’ B&B at the Le Meridien Lav in Split (from UK: 00 385 21 500500/ www.lemeridien.com/split) from L730 per adult, L484 per child, including return flights from Gatwick and transfers. The same package at the Hotel Excelsior in Dubrovnik (20 353353/ www.hotel-excelsior.hr) costs from L590 per adult, L424 per child.
Car hire can be arranged on request.
Croatian National Tourist Office: 020 8563 7979/ www.croatia.hr.
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