May 2010 (By Michael Winner)

Winner's Dinners: Dubrovnik - Not my choice of style, but a great destination

When I told people I’d abandoned the Auberge du Pere Bise after its incompetent reservation procedures, and was going to Dubrovnik, they asked, “Why?” They were wrong! It was a marvellous place — I had a great time.

The old town is large, unspoilt. In spite of being warned of dreadful food I had a historic meal in Dubrovnik and two outside. Plus some shockers.

Hotel Excelsior is practical and it has outstanding location. The dining room seats 600 people; there are conference rooms, one for 500 delegates; it does a lot of Irish and Spanish weddings.

Our suite was superb. Enormous, nicely furnished, with a vast terrace and a stunning view of the sea and the old town. The hotel interior is well designed. A lot of fine rugs enliven the marble floors.

A great thing about Croatia is the people. They’re immensely pleasant, smiling, willing.
The bathroom was so complex you needed a 100-page instruction book. The taps resembled bollards with knobs on; the shower, a spaceship. Simplicity was not rampant.
There’s a fantastic dining terrace where I had my first hotel lunch.

The hotel owner, Goran Strok, and his wife, Renata, were supremely hospitable. They showed us round. If they didn’t, Nikolina Vicelic (charming PR lady of the Excelsior hotel) and the delightful hotel manager, Jasna Durkovic, did.
I suggest you visit Dubrovnik before it goes. New buildings are raising their hideous heads. It’ll look like the Costa Brava soon. Now it has great atmosphere and architectural beauty beyond belief.

We had a terrific meal in Nautika, by the walls of the old town. It’s owned by a jolly local, Mato Durovic. The marinated scampi with goat’s cheese were incredible, fresh from the Adriatic. The medallions of young veal, prosecco, sweet raisin and white wine sauce with a mousse of peas and potato cone, magnificent. Like the nearby castle on a rock, rising from the sea, where Daniel Day-Lewis performed Hamlet.

My dessert was “Torta od skorupa”, described as cream cake with butter, eggs, almonds and lemon zest. Another triumph!